than a family can use. By slightly enlarging or rearranging the barn, other livestock or poultry can be added or substituted.
“Many country places already have a structure that can be made into an efficient barn. If you’re in doubt as to whether or not it’s better to remodel or rebuild, ask a local carpenter for an estimate both ways. If you’re going to do the work yourself, pay him for his advice.
“Now, if you are figuring that you might build yourself, let me add a word of encouragement. When we moved to the country and I undertook to build my barn, I actually didn’t know the first thing about how to proceed. I had had a course in manual training in grammar school and learned to saw a board and hammer a nail.
“However, I learned that there is nothing complicated about building a small barn or chicken house. If a person has just a little manual dexterity, for instance the ability to drive a car, then he should be able to build a barn with plans. Carpenters, masons, plumbers and electricians love to make a great mystery of their professions—and the building codes, the building supply people, the labor unions, the utility and applicance manufacturers do their best to keep the average householder from doing any building on his own. But the truth of the matter is that most of the skills of the average mechanic are pretty simple to master. Naturally their speed and accuracy is based on years of practice. But if you’ve got time, you can proceed slowly, and in the end, when your barn is done, who’s to know whether it was built in a week or two months?”
The 900 square-foot 30 x 30 barn shown here will provide for the needs of all but the most ambitious home steader. Unlike the Robinson’s barn it is a pole construction. Though a section of the interior is labeled, individual demands and desires will vary, so no attempt has been made to plan it completely. The main section could be built first and the lean-to added later.
All the information needed to erect this building is contained in the earlier text. It is important to locate the site so that drainage is away from the foundation in every direction. The floor should have 8 inches of gravel under the tamped earth floor. An improvement would be a 6-inch concrete floor poured over the gravel
The large door end of the building requires a somewhat different framing to bridge over the door. And since there is no pole in the center, a beam made of three lengths of 2 x 8s spiked together is added to support the ridge.
The doors are of the typical barn type made from vertical tongue and groove boards fastened together with battens, with at least one diagonal batten to prevent sagging. The windows are stock sizes available at lumber dealers. Establish the windows’ rough opening sizes before nailing on girts, using the windows’ vertical dimensions to locate the girts below the plate. Further explanation of this step will be found in the Garage Plans, Page 63.
Metal roofing can be substituted for the double coverage asphalt shown in these plans. If so, plywood roof sheathing can be omitted, although this is not recommended in cold climates, because of the insulation value and added strength provided by the plywood.
The siding used on the small Barn can be board and batten or any of the various textured plywood sidings available for exterior use.